Contrary to the myth that melanin-rich skin is more resilient, the abundance of eumelanin can also mean a greater potential for irritation/inflammation, pigmentation and dehydration, which all contribute to diminishing our glow! Each of these skin issues can each occur in their own right, but they can also influence each other, creating a vicious cycle that is not easy to escape from if we don’t understand that it’s an issue to begin with. Once we know the root of the issue, then we can think differently, recognise the manifestations of certain problems and take more informed, melanin-kind action.
1.Skin sensitivity/inflammation
The cycle of issues can often begin with sensitivity and inflammation, triggered by environmental factors, UV exposure, or harsh skincare products. Deeper-tones, which are often perceived as more resilient, can in fact be more reactive to external aggressors.
This irritation/inflammation, if left unchecked (which can often be the case, as it doesn’t always manifest as redness!), paves the way for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and can compromise the skin barrier even more, leading to dehydration and further irritation. Not to mention, the dullness that can accompany skin lacking in water and an impaired ability to shed dead surface cells regularly. Free radicals causing inflammation can also break down the collagen in skin.
2.Hyperpigmentation
Melanogenesis, the production of melanin, can be triggered by UV exposure, trauma, pollution, and/or inflammation. Deeper tones are more likely to experience this due to higher amounts of more reactive, insoluble eumelanin in their skin. Eumelanin is more likely created in this process leading to hyperpigmentation (patches of skin becoming darker than the surrounding skin).
Other forms of pigmentation include Melasma, which is hormonal pigmentation resulting in large symmetrical patches of discolouration across various areas of the face. Hypopigmentation is when melanocytes stop producing melanin, causing skin to look pale in certain areas.
If left untreated, all these conditions can worsen over time and damage the skin barrier even more. However, treating these issues with 'lighteners' and other harsh products can also create sensitivities, barrier damage and water loss, thus exacerbating the cycle.
3.Dehydration
Dehydration is caused when skin lacks water and results in a dull, lack lustre appearance. It can be a result of various different factors such as weather, hormones, stress, harsh skin care products, and more. Dehydration can also create an uneven skin tone in melanin-rich skin because the cell desquamation (shedding of dead skin cells) becomes disturbed due to the lack of water. Some studies have also shown that deeper tones can also have less ceramides (which protect and strengthen the barrier and prevent trans epidermal water loss), which can perpetuate the loss of hydration.
Although it can be caused by irritants, barrier damage, and harsh treatments for pigmentation, the loss of hydration can also amplify sensitivity, inflammation and appearance of pigmentation, thus promoting the vicious cycle of risk factors that diminish our glow.
Other concerns
Ageing in deeper tones can also result in volume loss and appearance of more hollowing or shadowing, which can be mistaken for hyperpigmentation. Loss of dermis density due to skin trauma or injury can also look like enlarged pores.
In melanin-rich skin, sebaceous glands can often be larger and produce more sebum, which can increase the risk of inflammation. Over-cleansing to compensate for increased oil production can also damage the barrier and result in pigmentation and dehydration.
Breaking Free from this vicious cycle: Skin Azadi
Embrace Gentle Care: Break the cycle by opting for kindness in your skincare routine. Avoid harsh products and embrace gentle cleansers, serums and moisturisers that soothe, nurture and hydrate skin. Less is definitely more with deeper tones - less heat, less chemicals, less friction, less product!
Prioritise Protection: Shield skin from the elements with broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen and antioxidants. Protecting skin from UV and environmental damage is essential to break the cycle.
Choose Holistic Solutions: Seek multifunctional skincare products that address inflammation, pigmentation, and hydration simultaneously. Look for ingredients that are gentle and efficacious with less side effects. Using pH balanced cleansers with gentle clarifying and exfoliating action. Remove impurities, but actively nourish with fatty acids and restoring lipids. Hydrate with botanical humectants, which also offer a range of other skin benefits. Use products that brighten, not lighten! A healthy diet and regular exercise are all also key.
Practice Patience and Consistency: Remember, breaking free from the vicious cycle takes time. Eumelanin is less soluble and not as likely to react to topical products in the same way as lighter tones. Be patient and consistent in skincare routines, and trust in the transformative power of melanin-friendly care.
Conclusion:
By understanding the interconnected nature of irritation/sensitivity, hyperpigmentation, and dehydration, we can reclaim the freedom of our melanin beauty. Embracing a holistic approach to skincare, rooted in kindness, protection, and patience, allowing our skin to flourish with radiance and vitality it deserves.
