In this blog we get insights into the world of skincare formulations from Judi, Cosmetic Scientist and Azadi Product Formulator. A highly respected, world- renowned skincare professional, Judi has worked with small startups as well as leading brands to help them harness the potential of plant-based ingredients to develop powerful, effective and environmentally sustainable formulations.
1. What excited you about working on developing a skin care range that focusses on deeper skin tones but still works for all, through its attention to melanin?
In recent years, scientists have come to better understand the differences in the physiology of the skin of different ethnic groups and the role that melanin and skin tone plays within this. All skin types have a basic need for hydration and moisturisation, but deeper skin tones have been shown to often have greater need to overcome an ashy, dull and uneven appearance when the skin becomes very dehydrated, dry or perturbed. So, it was a great challenge to work on a range that was designed to be suitable for all but also particularly good for melanin rich skin, ensuring it looks healthy and radiant.
2. As a cosmetic scientist with an expertise in natural formulations - why should we harness the power of nature?
As a chemist it’s not about synthetic vs natural ingredients, it is about harnessing the power of nature and plants to not only deliver great skin benefits, but also to have a measurable positive impact on overall well-being and how people perceive themselves – scientists are discovering plant-based ingredients where these links can be proven, which is a great stride forward! Why wouldn’t you want to embrace such amazing benefits for your skin?
3. Tell us a bit more about the current emphasis on promoting skin health and really harnessing the body’s natural healing and regenerative abilities, over relying on invasive cosmetic or medical treatments. How can this be achieved using topical formulations?
Whilst amazing advances have been made in cosmetic and surgical treatments, they can have unintended side effects and/or require long periods of recuperation. As cosmetic formulators we are trying to achieve the skin most of us want – one that is healthy looking as nature intended and what was once termed “normal”. So topical skin care must help to “normalise” the skin’s processes and help put back what may have been lost by exposure to sunlight, pollution, stress and other factors that tend to age the skin prematurely or lead to unwanted skin conditions. The skin is actually an amazing barrier to many things, but once it becomes compromised, it is less able to function as it should. For me the key to achieving healthy looking skin is to use the best natural ingredients which also have a positive environmental impact.
4. For Azadi Skin, the 3 key concerns for the deeper tone demographic (which of course can and do affect all tones), are skin irritation/inflammation, pigmentation and dehydration. How do the Azadi formulations reflect the need to address these concerns?
The Azadi formulations are built around high performing natural ingredients that aim to calm and soothe ‘stressed’ skin, help reduce hyperpigmentation and address dehydrated skin in different ways. These were built into functional bases, or ‘skeletons’ as I like to call them. These functional ingredients, such as emulsifiers and emollients, are also plant based but were specifically chosen to have great sensory appeal. I believe that any skincare product should be a joy to use and make you come back for more!
5. The Azadi formulations don’t feature some of the more buzzword ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol or niacinamide, instead focusing on plant-based active ingredients. What is the reason for that?
In my experience, some skincare brands feel they have to rely on consumer’s searching the Internet for these buzzwords, in order to get noticed. They feel that they have to include these ingredients in their formulations without considering if there might be newer, well researched, naturally derived, active ingredients with comparable or even better efficacy. Whilst hyaluronic acid is typically produced by fermentation, so is considered as naturally derived, there are other popular ingredients like retinol, niacinamide and panthenol, to give a few examples, that although classed as vitamins (or pro-vitamins) are actually pure synthetics so do not fit within the philosophy of the Azadi range. So, we focussed on using naturally derived ingredients with proven activity that rivals that of the traditional synthetic anti-ageing ingredients, many of which have been around for more than 50 years!
6. What are your personal stand out ingredients in the Azadi formulations and why?
There are a whole host of incredible active ingredients in the Azadi formulations and they are all there for a reason – so it is a bit like asking me to pick out my favourite child! However, if I had to, I would probably choose the following 4 from different categories of ingredients:
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide – the range was built around this somewhat unassuming sounding ingredient. However, it has been highly researched by one of the leading cosmetic active ingredient manufacturers and the testing has demonstrated it has real powerhouse benefits. A survey conducted by the company showed that psychological stress adversely affects skin hydration and radiance by up-regulating (increasing) cortisol production. These galactomannans, from the seed of the Ayurvedic Indian Senna plant, interrupt the stress cycle within the skin. It also has a prebiotic effect on beneficial skin soothing bacteria, so helps to rebalance the microbiome. In addition to many longer term benefits, there was an immediate visible improvement to skin complexion, tested versus a placebo and sodium hyaluronate, outperforming them both significantly.
Ectoin – I have been in love with this small ‘extremolyte” molecule since I first came across it some years ago. It is truly multi-functional with great research data to back it up. Not only does it protect the cells against damage, it actively helps them to repair and regenerate, so it’s particularly important for products with SPF. I’m glad it is finally having its moment in the sun.
Halobacterium Ferment Lysate Extract – this novel biotech ingredient is produced by controlled fermentation of Haloarchaea, a microbe that is one of the oldest forms of life on Earth. The active tackles signs of stressed skin in three ways – by protecting the skin from losing barrier function and becoming dry, by addressing ageing caused by damage to important structural proteins, such as elastin, and by soothing the skin.
Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil – I love the rich orange/yellow colour it imparts and its excellent skin caring benefits. With a high (and unusual) Omega-7 and Vitamin A content, it helps combat dry skin, and is considered an effective anti-ageing oil, reducing wrinkles and boosting collagen production. It is not just any plant oil for sure!
7. What are your top infuriating claims or falsehoods that you hear a lot, and what is response to these?
Unfortunately, there is a fair degree of greenwashing in the natural cosmetic space. This is now being added to by misleading claims around sustainability. The cosmetic regulation is very clear – claims must be transparent, honest and truthful so that consumers are not misled. Sustainability is a journey and not everything can be achieved in one go at the outset.
Similarly, I often find it difficult to equate ingredient lists (the INCI) with claims around their natural content. Knowing as much as I do about ingredients and how formulations are put together, I sometimes question how something can be declared as e.g. 97% natural, when there are clearly ingredients high on the list that would not be considered naturally derived under many industry standards or by me!
8. Finally what are your personal top 3 tips for people in achieving healthy natural glowing skin?
I am of course also a consumer of skin care products as well as a formulator. In addition to using a good regime of products with powerhouse natural ingredients that suit your skin, my other main tips are eating nourishing fresh food, drinking plenty of water, exercising to get the blood circulating and getting plenty of sleep (OK so there were 4!). This is nothing new, but with our busy modern lives, it’s not always to balance a healthy lifestyle. So thank goodness we have great skin care products in the Azadi range that can help us to be and feel a bit more radiant!
